The Kumaon region of Uttarakhand is one of India’s best-kept secrets for motorcyclists. Towering deodars, mist rolling off the mountain ridges, and roads that twist like ancient riverbeds, this is not a place where you ride for speed. It’s where the bike becomes part of your breath, where leaning into a corner feels like you’re leaning into a new page of your own story. So, when the keys to the BMW R 18 Roctane landed in my palm, there was no question where I’d be pointing the front wheel. Kumaon was calling.
The first difficult decision follows after a few minutes
I was barely fifteen minutes into my ride when it happened. You know how it is, you’re heading to the local shop, just a quick errand. Milk, some fruit, maybe a snack. But when you’re on a machine like the R 18 Roctane, the air shifts. The engine fires up with a signature throb that settles somewhere deep in your ribcage. The wide, swept-back handlebars welcome you like an old friend. I reach the first fork in the road. Right to the market, left to the hills. The sun is out, the skies above Almora are powder-blue, and the distant chirping of hill birds drowns out any urban noise still buzzing in my head. My hand, acting entirely on instinct, turns the bars left. I’m heading uphill, winding my way past pine forests toward Binsar. The milk can wait.
No matter, off through the middle – out of everyday stress
The farther I ride, the more the world behind fades. The R 18 Roctane is not a fast bike in the conventional sense, it’s deliberate. You don’t attack corners on it. You court them. Its 1,802cc boxer engine gives you torque you can feel in your bones,158 Nm at just 3,000 rpm. It doesn’t want to race. It wants to breathe. And it wants you to breathe with it. The road to Chitai Golu Devta Temple is narrow and dust-smeared, with local cars and buses occasionally throwing up clouds of grit. But the Roctane soaks it up. Even with a rigid-looking design, BMW has tuned the rear central suspension strut to absorb just enough, making the ride plush but not disconnected. I find a rhythm. I don’t care where I end up anymore.
Motorcycling as therapy

I didn’t set out to lose my stress, but somewhere between the switchbacks of Kasar Devi and the empty ridges above Bhowali, it was gone. There’s something about the way this bike engages your body. The mid-mounted footpegs force you into a gentle arch, back upright, arms forward, like stretching after a long nap. The heel-toe shifter becomes meditative. I’m not thinking about riding anymore; I’m just riding. The dash is retro but functional, simple analog speedometer, with a small LCD for essentials. No fuel gauge, though, just a warning light. But somehow, I don’t care. I trust “Rocky” will get me there. Wherever there is. With each kilometer, my headache dissipates. My usual back twinge? Not a flicker. Maybe it’s the ride. Maybe it’s the clean Kumaoni air. Or maybe motorcycles really are therapy.
Right, left, it doesn’t matter – the main thing is to drive
The thing about Kumaon roads is they rarely go straight. And that’s perfect, because the Roctane prefers a dance over a sprint. Yes, it’s heavy, over 374 kg wet, but it’s balanced. Surprisingly so. That massive boxer twin keeps the weight low, which means slow-speed maneuvering isn’t the battle you’d expect. You can feel the inertia in tight turns, but once you commit, the Roctane holds its line with grace. Above Ranikhet, I find a deserted stretch. I roll on the throttle in second gear. The engine responds with a deep growl, animalistic, primal. No artificial intake scream here, just the raw throb of mechanical intent. I drop to third, then back to second just for the sound. Again and again.
But there was already quite a lot going on in the supermarket
I eventually make it back down to Almora, covered in a light film of mountain dust and thoroughly at peace with myself. Yes, I bought the milk. But I stood in line with my helmet on and the receipt in my glove. No one questioned it. “Where were you?” I was asked back home. “The supermarket was pretty packed,” I replied. Not a lie. Just not the whole truth. Rocky and I had been somewhere else entirely.
The end of the beginning – endurance test of the BMW R 18 Roctane
This first ride was an experience. But if first impressions are any guide, the R 18 Roctane is not just a cruiser. It’s an emotion wrapped in chrome and steel. It’s less about numbers and more about moments. We’ll add accessories later, maybe test its two-up comfort or long-haul ability. But this day, this ride, that was the bike in its purest form. No windshield. No GPS. No plan. Just road, wind, and that pulsing engine note in your soul.
Technical Specifications
Specification | Details |
Engine Type | 1,802cc air-/oil-cooled 2-cylinder boxer |
Power Output | 91 hp @ 4,750 rpm |
Torque | 158 Nm @ 3,000 rpm |
Transmission | 6-speed manual + reverse gear |
Final Drive | Exposed shaft drive |
Suspension (Front) | Telescopic fork, 120 mm travel |
Suspension (Rear) | Steel swingarm with central strut, 90 mm |
Front Brake | Twin disc, 300 mm, four-piston calipers |
Rear Brake | Single disc, 300 mm, four-piston caliper |
Tires | Metzeler ME 888 Marathon Ultra (Front 120/70 R21, Rear 180/55 R18) |
Wheelbase | 1,695 mm |
Seat Height | 720 mm |
Weight (Ready-to-Ride) | 374 kg |
Fuel Tank Capacity | 16 liters |
Riding Modes | Rock, Roll, Rain |
Features | ABS, ASC (traction control), cruise control |
Conclusion
The BMW R 18 Roctane doesn’t pretend to be everything for everyone. It doesn’t beg to be ridden fast. It doesn’t care for track days or apex-hunting. It’s a cruiser in the most classic sense, but reimagined with German precision and unmistakable charm. It’s the kind of motorcycle that transforms errands into excursions and everyday rides into small odysseys. Sure, it drinks like a Bavarian at Oktoberfest. Sure, it’s heavy. And sure, it doesn’t come with a fuel gauge. But what it gives you in return is a kind of freedom most machines only dream of offering. If you ride for the thrill, maybe look elsewhere. But if you ride to feel, to escape, to connect with the road in a deeper way, then “Rocky” is already waiting. Just don’t forget the milk.